Skincare Product Overload

What You Need to Know About Skincare Product “Grades” Before You Buy

I have had many patients come to me frustrated with the plethora of skincare products available that all preach to accomplish the same result-better skin. Of course, all products don’t practice what they preach. So, how can you sift through the all of the products available to find out the best ones for your skin? The answer is easy; ask your dermatologist! But, before you make your appointment, make sure you’re armed with the appropriate information, so you can intelligently decipher your doctor’s recommendations.

There are three basic “grades” of skincare products, over-the-counter (OTC), physician-grade and prescriptive. Here’s a breakdown of what qualifies a skincare product to be labeled a particular grade and what each has to offer your skin:

Over-the-Counter
As the name implies, these products are available “over the counter” at drug stores and department stores. If you are expecting to see dramatic results by using an OTC product, you will be disappointed because these products usually do not contain a high enough percentage of active ingredients to accomplish great skin improvements. This is because these products only treat the outer-most layer of the skin and don’t penetrate the inner-layer to really improve the skin’s appearance. There are OTCs, however, that are better than others. Some that I recommend include:

Regenerist Deep Hydration Regenerating Cream (OLAY): A reliable over-the-counter product with great hydration, antioxidants and even a peptide. Maintaining hydration is crucial to improving the appearance of lines and wrinkles.

RoC Retinol Correxion Deep Wrinkle Night Cream (Johnson & Johnson): This product contains retinol, the weaker cousin of Retin A, which is remarkably beneficial for reducing fine lines and wrinkles.

A key thing to remember about OTC products is that they are not regulated by the FDA; therefore, they do not have to meet the strict standards that prescriptive products do. So, if you do include OTC products in your daily regimen, stick with the trusted, well-known brands that your dermatologist recommends.

Physician-Grade
These products are generally available only at a physician’s office-that’s because they contain a higher percentage of active ingredients or “pharmaceutical” ingredients. My patients have seen notable improvements in their skin in a short amount of time because these products generally have higher grade and higher potency ingredients, and the science behind the products tends to be stronger and more comprehensive. There are several products that I recommend, but some of my favorites include:

SkinMedica TNS to reduce fine-line. It contains a peptide that stimulates collagen production. Don’t let the red color gel and funky smell turn you off; they dissipate within minutes of application.

RevaleSkin Day Cream contains super antioxidants that are tremendous protectors against damaging free radicals caused by sun and pollution.

Kinerase Lotion with SPF 30 gives double protection and prevents wrinkles and sun damage. This is not merely a sunscreen; it is a powerful anti-aging product containing kinetin and zeatin (antioxidant plant extracts and rejuvenating agents) that happens to have an SPF of 30 built-in.

MD Forte III Cleanser contains a high level of buffered glycolic acid for excellent exfoliation. Its unique formulation allows for high-level glycolic acid with low irritancy and it’s great for photodamage and acne prone skin.

Clarisonic Brush works wonders when used with any cleanser. Clarisonic is not microdermabrasion, but uses ultrasonic technology (like the Sonicare toothbrush) to deep-cleanse the pores with vibration, not a rotation. It allows the active ingredient of a cleanser (such as glycolic acid) to penetrate pores more efficiently.

Physician-grade products-sometimes referred to as cosmeceuticals-do not require a prescription and the prices rival your favorite department store brands. Contrary to popular belief, these products are fairly easy to find; in fact, most manufacturers list the medical offices that carry their products on their websites.

Prescriptive
These products, as implied, require a physician’s prescription because of the high potency of ingredients that have passed rigorous scrutiny. They are deemed to be safe and effective for specific indications such as acne, pigment or sun damage. Prescriptive products are regulated by the FDA-and, they are also regulated by your physician. Your physician may prescribe a number of different products that can help improve overall appearance:

Tazarac and Differin both contain Retin A-type ingredients, the original wrinkle reducer, and have shown significant results in wrinkle reduction.

Triluma, a prescription containing three key ingredients-hydroquinone (a lightening agent), retinoid and cortisone-treats blotchy pigment such as melasma otherwise known as the “mask of pregnancy.”

Latisse enhances eyelashes and actually does grow longer, darker, thicker lashes. It has been out for a couple of months and has already gained wide popularity.

Prescriptive products are only available by way of a physician’s prescription for a reason-they are not for everyone and must be used according to instructions. Feel free to ask your dermatologist if a prescription product is right for you-just be prepared that it may not be.

Remember, the best place to find answers to your questions about the best products for your skin is from your dermatologist. Heeding the advice of a professional will take out the guess work and will potentially save you a lot of frustration, time and money.

If you would like to learn more about skin care options, you can attend Van Dyke Laser & Skin’s Pre-Summer Skincare Open House, Saturday, May 9 in Scottsdale, Ariz. Dr. Van Dyke will be giving her famous “Cosmetic Dermatology 101″ lectures on treatment options for the skin and there will be refreshments, giveaways and treatment demonstrations. For more information, visit www.VanDykeLaser.com

About Dr. Susan Van Dyke
Susan Van Dyke, M.D. is a board certified dermatologist who has performed more than 10,000 non-invasive cosmetic procedures and has received the “Physician’s Recognition Award” from the American Medical Association each practicing year. She is a top consultant and national physician trainer for Medicis, Allergan, Lumenis and Solta (manufacturers of Thermage and Fraxel); on the advisory board for Valeant Pharmaceuticals; on the speakers’ bureaus for RevaleSkin, Clinique Medical and Obagi; a “Platinum Plus” BOTOX Cosmetic and Juvéderm Provider; and her practice is designated as a BOTOX Cosmetic National Training Center. Dr. Van Dyke has been honored as a faculty member by the American Academy of Cosmetic Surgery and the American Society for Dermatologic Surgery and is typically one of the first to launch the latest proven therapies in cosmetic medicine. For more information on Dr. Van Dyke and her practice, Van Dyke Laser & Skin, visit http://www.vandykelaser.com/.

Hours of operation for Van Dyke Laser & Skin are Tues.-Fri. from 8:00 am to 5:00 pm and Sat. from 8:00 am to 12:00 pm. Consultations and appointments can be booked by calling 480.948.5045.

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